Food: innovative modernist cuisine
Address: Carrer de Villarroel 163, 08036 Barcelona, Spain
Phone Number: +34 93 348 68 96
Website: en.disfrutarbarcelona.com
Guide Michelin: 2 stars
What I paid: 258 € (Disfrutar tasting menu per person, including water and wine)
Visited: September 28, 2017
Disfrutar is for sure one of the most innovative restaurants existing. Maybe not that strange, given the three head chefs running the restaurant; Oriol Castro, Mateu Casañas and Eduard Xatruch. Oriol Castro is the former head chef at elBulli, a position he had for several years until its closure in 2011, with Casañas and Xatruch as his right hand men. Many famous chefs have made a stunt at elBulli, but those three alumni’s have spent most of their carriers there.
Restaurant Disfrutar is in the Eixample area of Barcelona, just in front of the Ninot Market.
Disfrutar (“enjoy”) opened its door in December 2014. Between this and the closure of elBulli, the three chefs have also opened another restaurant, called Compartir (“to share”) in Cadaqués. Compartir opened in April 2012 and I visited it July, 2013 (see here).
Disfrutar is not a copy of Compartir, but they share similarities. However, Disfrutar is much more innovative and the culinary offer orbits around the tasting menu, which is clearly avant-garde and innovative in its positioning.
There are three different menus to choose from (where two have different sizes):
- Menus composed by dishes that have become classics
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- Classic – a 120 €
- Gran Classic – a 150 €
- Menus composed of mainly elaborations created during the current season
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- Festival – a 120 €
- Gran Festival – a 150 €
- Tasting menu with a selection of classic and current dishes, in addition of some exclusive for this menu
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- Disfrutar – a 185 €
The servant recommended all “first time” eaters to go with either of the two classic menus. That being said, we opted for the Disfrutar menu.
The restaurant was before regarded a catch, but that can hardly be said anymore, with a menu for 185 Euro (a price on pair with most of 3-stars Guide Michelin restaurants in Spain). I checked older menu prices, and they have increased in price quite substantially, the last couple of years. A price to pay for its popularity…
We had something like 35 servings this dinner (click any picture to enter gallery):
- Frozen passion fruit ladyfinger with rum
- The beet that comes out of the land
- Lychee and roses (do not eat the leaves…)
- Preparation for apple cider
- Glass for the apple cider
- Smoked instant apple cider
- Mille-feuille of “Idiazábal”
- Panchino filled with beluga caviar
- Savory walnut candy with mango, tonka beans and whisky
- Mandarin flower wafer
- Bread
- Disfrutar Gilda
- Gazpacho sandwich with vinegar garnish
- “Super tender” almonds in vinaigrette
- Crispy egg yolk with mushrooms gelatine
- Multi spherical tatin of foie gras and corn
- Ceviche deconstruction
- Salmon ribs with tarragon mojo
- Razor clams with seaweed in salt
- Razor clams with seaweed
- Macaroni carbonara
- Macaroni carbonara
- Tomato “polvorón” and arbequina oil caviar
- Liquid salad
- Sea cucumber noodles
- Langoustine in “suquet”
- Cappuccino “suquet”
- Preparation of pigeon cold juice
- Pigeon cold juice with tarragon
- Pigeon and foie gras bonbon
- Laksa
- Pigeon with strawberry warm/cold
- Strawberries warm/cold
- Iberian pork al pibil
- Black cauliflower with coconut beichamel
- Pandan
- Black sesame cornet
- Cherries 2017
- After a few drops of Lagavulin was rubbed between your palms, a vanilla cream and yuzu ingredient was served, as part of the “Tarta al whisky”
- Two out of four ingredients of the “Tarta al whisky”
- Coffe Swiss roll
- Cotton of cocoa and mint
- Chocolate peppers
We had the following wines:
- Paul Déthune – Champagne – Brut Grand Cru – 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay including 30 to 50% reserve wine
- Egly-Ouriet – Champagne – Grand Cru Brut Rosé NV
- 2015 Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus ‘Laurel’, Priorat D.O.C., Spain
- 2014 Bodegas Juan Gil ‘Bruto’ Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain
In summary:
Not many can get away with a molecular style of cooking a la 2017. This term (i.e. “molecular”) is to start with, very vague and misused and secondly, something no one wants to be associated with. However, for me it describes a little bit of Disfrutar’s style, but maybe it is better to call it modernist cuisine. Needless to say; Disfrutar does of course not label its food themselves as molecular. Instead, they emphasize its Mediterranean identity and modern angle.
Before my visit, I was not sure, if I still would appreciate this style of cooking. However, I was pleasantly surprised. Given that we had about 35 servings, naturally not all of them suited my taste buds. But in overall, I really enjoyed Disfrutar, with its many different and fun modern dishes! Highly recommended!