Food: French cuisine
Address: Hermine-Bareiss-Weg 1, 72270 Baiersbronn-Mitteltal, Germany
Phone Number: +49 (0) 7442 47 0
Guide Michelin: 3 stars
Gault & Millau: 19
What I paid: 290 € (tasting menu per person including water and wine)
Visited: November 11, 2016
Baiersbronn is famous as a fine dining center in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) region of Germany. The area is also renowned for its many spa places and good hiking. In 2007 Claus-Peter Lumpp, whose restaurant Bareiss is the second three-star eatery in the town of Baiersbronn earned his ultimate third Guide Michelin star. Lumpp’s neighbor, Harald Wohlfahrt, of Schwarzwaldstube joined the three-star club in 1992.
Considering its modest population of about 15000, Baiersbronn covers quite a large area, of which more than 80% is covered with woods. The area as a whole is known for its sizable quantity of entrepreneurial businesses, and several of Germany’s medium-size and family-owned enterprises make their home here. Its main industry is tourism.
The new German haute cuisine is generally, but foremost in the Baiersbronn area, rooted in the classic French cooking but unconstrained by tradition. German chefs feel less obliged to specific customs or ingredients than most of their French colleagues. Local ingredients is a strong preference but is not set in stone.
Bareiss is a family run 5-stars hotel with several restaurants and large spa facilities.
There has in the past been a rivalry between Bareiss (the hotel hosting restaurant Bareiss) and the neighbouring Traube Tonach (the hotel that accommodates restaurant Schwarzwaldstube). That being said, this is something of the past and today this rivalry is nonexistent and they speak warmly of each other.
Whereas most of the current German 3-stars chefs have trained at Schwarzwaldstube, head chef Claus Peter Lumpp of restaurant Bareiss followed a different path and spent his first years at Bareiss (then called Kurhotel Mittaltal). Chef Lumpp then worked at some top restaurants in Europe, for instance at Alain Ducasse Le Louis XV in Monaco before he returned as head chef to the then 2-stars Bareiss in 1992.
After a relatively disappointed dinner at Schwarzwaldstube the previous evening, we entered Bareiss with mixed expectations.
We decided (as always…) to opt for the biggest Tasting Menu:
The tasting menu
Cold & warm Amuse Bouche
All Amuse-Bouches were all tasty, so the Bareiss dinner indeed started good!
Creation of goose foie gras
with wild fig and old balsamico
The foie gras was of high quality and flavoursome. The dish as a whole was also well balanced and delicious.
Like many of the subsequent dishes on the menu, an extra side-dish complimented the serving.
with smoked potato
cream celery and buckwheat
I really liked the subtile smoky potato in this dish.
A tasty ice cream supplemented the scallop dish. Also good!
Cod poached in olive oil
with braised carrot
and chive and coriander sauce
Yet another good dish!
Cassolette of black-feather chicken
with pumpkin and white Alba truffle
Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of this tasty dish with white Alba truffle.
Saddle of roe deer and braised shoulder
from the Bareiss hunting grounds
with glazed and red cabbage and juniper glaze
Good quality meat and again a very worthy dish!
Assorted cheese from the trolley
Dark chocolate with passion fruit
Dulcey Panna Cotta and pineapple
A good (and tasty…) start of the dessert section!
Confiserie & pralines from the trolley
Some tasty petits fours ended this ended this excellent dinner.
In summary: Bareiss delivered, and we were all very pleased with our dinner! A solid 3-stars restaurant with its root in the French cuisine but still with its own identity. Highly recommended!